25 October 2010
one of my favorite shots and I'm sure most of you have seen this photo but don't know the story. Well on this day at maccas it was rather crowded and difficult to get one of the good ones so I decided to paddle outside and up the point a bit you know sit a bit deeper than everyone else and it paid off too, as I was looking down at the water zoning out on the reef I hear a scream (OUTSIDE!) I look up and see this bomb headed right for me and after that I heard screams at me go! go! go! I remember my heart pumping with excitement and dropping in and hearing the sound of the wave surrounding me and it being so windy inside the barrel it was so surreal and amazing and LOUD! it was why I became a surfer this exact moment until..... I got caught behind a foamball and fell, the wave then picked me up and over and i slammed but didn't hit bottom, I recall trying to put my arms over my head because I thought for sure I was gonna hit reef, the wave was so strong I couldn't lift my arms over my head and it ripped both my booties offbut after that wave a got rid of any gidders I thought I had. At the end of the trip I run into a guy in this hotel who was a cook on one of the boats and he told me he got the shot of me on the bomb, I was so stoked when he showed me. big props to the cook!