31 October 2010
30 October 2010
28 October 2010
27 October 2010
25 October 2010
So on a layday we took the zodiac up into these mangroves and visited a small village where there were dozens of children who broke out in laughter and joy when they spotted us, I guess the norm is to bring the kids candy but we didn't have any. Oh by the ay these people were probably head hunters 50 years ago.
This is Nokandui and me and one other guy were the only ones that went out and it's amazing how so many perfect waves go unridden each day you just have to go find them. My buddy broke his board on a thick one and I was left with this perfection by myself once again.
The Mentawais are scattered with little islands with perfect waves you have so many choices small waves, big waves, This is in an area called playgrounds because thats just what it is a big playground, cool thing is when one spot blows out you just boat around the corner to a spot thats offshore.
This is a shot of A Frames and I believe it was my first session this trip and the boat was parked rather far from the break, I was too impatient to wait for the smaller boat to take me over so I paddled which was freaking far and scary because I hate swimming in deep water but when I got there I was the only one out so I really didn't mind :)
one of my favorite shots and I'm sure most of you have seen this photo but don't know the story. Well on this day at maccas it was rather crowded and difficult to get one of the good ones so I decided to paddle outside and up the point a bit you know sit a bit deeper than everyone else and it paid off too, as I was looking down at the water zoning out on the reef I hear a scream (OUTSIDE!) I look up and see this bomb headed right for me and after that I heard screams at me go! go! go! I remember my heart pumping with excitement and dropping in and hearing the sound of the wave surrounding me and it being so windy inside the barrel it was so surreal and amazing and LOUD! it was why I became a surfer this exact moment until..... I got caught behind a foamball and fell, the wave then picked me up and over and i slammed but didn't hit bottom, I recall trying to put my arms over my head because I thought for sure I was gonna hit reef, the wave was so strong I couldn't lift my arms over my head and it ripped both my booties offbut after that wave a got rid of any gidders I thought I had. At the end of the trip I run into a guy in this hotel who was a cook on one of the boats and he told me he got the shot of me on the bomb, I was so stoked when he showed me. big props to the cook!
The reason why we fly 18 hours and sail for an additional 13 halfway across the world. For surfers when we come across something like this it's like finding buried treasure. This is a spot called telescopes and on this day it was absolutely mad! There were only two boats so it wasn't hard grabbing one of these gals, I remember how sore my body was when this shot was taken and I was just surfed out this day killed me.
This is in Taiwan during the S.A.R.S scare, we weren't sure how real it was and didn't see anyone wearing masks on the flight over but when we landed and exited the plane we could see everyone in a mask, even the airport workers were wearing them which sketched us out so we broke ours out and waited anxiously for our connecting flight to padang.
The great thing about being a surfer is that it brings us to travel more than the non-surfer to strange exotic lands and experience beautiful cultures that you wouldn't normally experience unless you were a surfer. I started the hunt for waves at an early age (18) I was tired of seeing perfect waves in the magazine every month so I decided to explore but I do regret not documenting the early years of my travel because behind every photo lies a story a story the viewer might not see or understand, the folowing are a few stories from the past.
24 October 2010
22 October 2010
I'm slowly getting the hang of riding a mat. I still can't cut back. As a matter of fact, I haven't really mastered turning. Nevertheless, I'm enjoying myself in ways I can't describe. There are some days when I just don't feel like standing up on a board, but I still want to get wet. That's when I get out on one of the mats. Yes, I have more than one. I may have a third before the year is up since 4th Gear Flyer in particular makes a variety of mats.
I can honestly say that riding prone, as I'm sure Adam will agree, allows you to see the wave from an entirely different perspective. I think every stand up surfer should at least ride a mat, bodyboard or handplane in addition to a surfboard. Being able to see and feel the wave as it's forming, and then being level with it (as opposed to standing over it) as it evolves, is truly magical. And you won't know this unless you try it.
I made this picture awhile back when I just felt like playing around with Photoshop. Originally, I was in the picture. That's my red, black and green Black Power surfboard that JMJ is riding. I chose him to be in the shots because there was something about his pose that made me think it would work on a surfboard. And I was right!
(I would give photo credit to the photographer from whom I stole the image of Jay if I knew who it was. The RUN DMC photo where I found Jay is all over the internet . . . without giving credit where credit is due. Just know that if it's your photo, I know this and I appreciate you!)
Addendum: I think the JMJ shot is from a picture Glen E. Friedman did of RUN DMC. I'm not sure, but I looked at some of his shots and found one picture in which the entire group was wearing what JMJ has on in this picture. So I'm thinking this is a GEF shot. Thank you, Glen, for your work throughout the years, particularly your shots from the early days of hip hop. You're incredible!)