18 December 2009
Caught few on the outside but I after a 10 or so waves I was getting tried and lost my board on the last three six footers so I called a day, did not have the energy to swim.
I should have paddle out with a smaller board.
I am out shape, too much sutting aroud and eating resturant food.
23 November 2009
19 November 2009
Anyway, the interview answered the question I'd been wondering about for decades.
How is it you were able to pull off such radical maneuvers in your career?
I’ll tell you this: I am half-Black and half-Hawaiian. So I guess it was my genetics.
Aha!!! That explains it. Buttons is a brother!! Oh yeah, he's a bad %!@ surfer too!
15 November 2009
11 November 2009
01 November 2009
18 October 2009
27 September 2009
18 September 2009
Time: 11a-10p | Date: 9.20.09 |
Location: Dockweiler Beach (11401 Vista Del Mar, West Imperial Hwy by LAX)
Lifeguard Tower: 153
BSA will be giving Free Surf Lessons!!!!!!!!!!!
NOTE!: Bring Your Own: Food, wood, for the fire pits, drinks, seats, blankets, music, drums, and other personal necessities
04 September 2009
24 August 2009
First, I want thank the Black Surfing Association for inviting Heal The Bay to participate in the beautiful ceremony on our previous Sunday morning. To part-take was a personal blessing! I was deeply moved by the unity and the love that brought everyone together! Surfers and non-surfers alike all shared in the same oneness of love!
Even though I never met Mr. Monte Valentin, I feel like I could relate to his passion for surf and his love for our oceans! I grew up miles and miles away from the beach on 125st and Normandie! Since I couldn’t surf the oceans, I surfed the streets on skateboards with the few friends in my area that actually skateboarded! In fifth grade I got a bike and it was all over! Like Mr. Valentin, I road my bike west until I hit golden sands and blue-green oceans! It didn’t matter what beach I ended up at, all that mattered was that I was there! I imagine Mr. Valentin hear the same calls from the oceans that I did as a child, received a similar sense of excitement and fulfillment at the end of his !
Again, thanks to the BSA and the Valentin family for having Heal The Bay and myself participate Sunday! Surfers and non-surfers alike all came together to shared in the same oneness of LOVE! It was a beautiful experience! I will always carry it close to my heart! As a son, a brother, a surfer and ocean lover!
23 August 2009
Today we celebrated the life of Monte Valentin, the body surfer who died at The Wedge during the last big south swell in July. His family members commented that the paddle out helped them to understand why Monte was drawn to the water. The BSA did itself proud today.
We didn't know you personally, brother, but you will be dearly missed.